Tailpiece

What it is

The tailpiece is the wedge-shaped piece at the bottom of the violin that anchors the lower ends of the four strings. More of this kind of thing is in the anatomy section.

It is held by a loop of gut or synthetic cord, the tailgut, which passes around the endpin button at the bottom edge of the instrument.

Like the bridge, it is held by string tension rather than being glued or fastened.

What it does

Anchors the strings. Each string ends in a loop or a ball that seats in a hole in the tailpiece.

Often carries fine tuners, which allow small pitch adjustments without using the pegs. Our free chromatic tuner helps with this between lessons.

Contributes acoustically, through its mass and through the afterlength, discussed below.

The afterlength

The length of string between the bridge and the tailpiece is called the afterlength, and it is not acoustically inert.

Those short string segments vibrate sympathetically, and their pitch depends on their length. Conventionally the afterlength is set so that these segments sound roughly an octave and a fifth above the open string, though practice varies.

Adjusting the afterlength, by changing the tailgut length, changes the instrument's response. Luthiers use this as a setup variable, and it can make a real difference to how an instrument speaks.

A player who notices their instrument sounds different after a tailpiece change is often hearing an afterlength change.

What it is made of

Ebony is the most common, matching the fingerboard and pegs.

Rosewood and boxwood are traditional alternatives, lighter than ebony.

Composite tailpieces in carbon fibre or moulded synthetics are common on modern instruments. They are light, stable, and often come with integrated fine tuners.

Wooden tailpieces with integrated tuners exist and combine the traditional appearance with the convenience.

Material affects mass, and mass affects the instrument's response. A lighter tailpiece generally allows a slightly more responsive instrument, which is one reason composite tailpieces have become popular.

Fine tuners

Small metal screws that adjust string tension in tiny increments.

One fine tuner, on the E string, is the most common classical setup. The E is thin and steel, and small tuning changes with a peg are difficult.

Four fine tuners are standard for students and for anyone using steel strings, since steel strings are far less forgiving of peg adjustment than gut or synthetic.

The tradeoff is mass. Four metal tuners add weight to the tailpiece, which slightly damps the instrument. Many advanced players use one, or use geared pegs and none.

Integrated tuners built into the tailpiece add less mass than four separate screw-on tuners.

What can go wrong

Tailgut failure. The loop breaks, the tailpiece releases, and the bridge falls. Modern synthetic tailguts are reliable, but old gut ones fail. Worth replacing preventively on an old instrument.

Buzzing. A loose fine tuner, a string end rattling, or the tailpiece contacting the top. Common source of mystery buzzes.

Contact with the top. If the tailpiece is set too low or the tailgut is too long, the tailpiece can touch the top or the saddle, which damps the instrument and buzzes.

Cracked tailpiece, usually around a fine tuner hole.

Fine tuner screwed down too far, so that the tuner body contacts the top. This damages varnish and buzzes.

Care

Check that the tailpiece is not touching the top.

Check that fine tuners are not screwed all the way down. When a tuner runs out of travel, back it off fully and retune with the peg.

If something buzzes and you cannot find it, the tailpiece area is the most common location.

Where it comes up in playing

Only in tuning, through the fine tuners.

Students are usually taught fine tuners before pegs, since they are safer and easier, and many beginners tune exclusively with them for months.

The habit to teach early: when a fine tuner runs out of travel, back it off and use the peg. Students who do not learn this end up with tuners screwed hard against the top.

How it is taught

As part of naming the parts, then as part of tuning.

The practical lessons: how to use fine tuners, when to stop using them and go to the peg, and to report buzzing rather than living with it.

The buzz hunt

Unexplained buzzing is one of the most common complaints, and the tailpiece area is the most common source.

Things to check, in order of likelihood:

A loose fine tuner. Tighten the mounting nut.

A fine tuner screwed so far down that its body touches the top.

A string end rattling inside the pegbox, at the other end entirely, which sounds like it is coming from the tailpiece.

The tailpiece itself contacting the saddle or the top.

A loose chinrest, which is nearby and buzzes convincingly.

Most buzzes are one of these five and none require a luthier. Working through them takes a few minutes and saves a trip.

Changing strings safely

Never remove all four strings at once.

With no string tension, the bridge falls and the soundpost usually falls with it. Resetting a soundpost is a luthier job and it is entirely avoidable.

Change one string at a time. The remaining three hold everything in place.

Soul Music Lessons teaches private and group violin lessons in Buford, Duluth, Berkeley Lake and Brookhaven. If how the instrument is built is what you are working on, book a no-commitment evaluation lesson and bring it to the first session. Call 470-789-2422.